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August 12, 2006

Ore wa Gaijin

When I was living in Japan, there was a small band who played some of the towns between Shinjuku and Mitaka in small live clubs. Their name was Hotel-NoTell, and they were made up of (if I remember correctly) two Fins, an American and a Japanese. They mostly played covers to groups like Dire Straits (note-for-note on the guitar licks). What I do remember correctly is the lyrics of my favorite original song of theirs. Ore wa Gaijin.

Ore wa gaijin, koko wa Tokyo;
Ore wa gaijin, koko wa Tokyo;
Dôzo yoroshiku, Eigo no sensei da zo.

Oyako-don ga daisuki, natto ga daikirai;
Oyako-don ga daisuki, natto ga daikirai;
Ore no Nihongo, amari jôzu ja nai.

It translates out to:
I'm a foreigner, this is Tokyo;
I'm a foreigner, this is Tokyo;
Nice to meet you, I'm an English teacher.

I love oyako rice-bowl, I hate natto;
I love oyako rice-bowl, I hate natto;
My Japanese isn't very good.

The song described me perfectly. It also described most of the people on my exchange program well enough that it sort of became our anthem.

(By the way, oyako rice-bowl is very much like its more famous cousin katsu-don (pork cutlet rice-bowl) but it has chicken substituted for the breaded pork cutlet. Mmm! And I hate natto also.)

And my Japanese wasn't very good.

The fact is, one can live in Japan, even in a place far away from the American military bases, without learning any more Japanese than greetings. A vocabulary of about twenty-five words can allow you to live for a year or so over there. I know people who have managed it. There are enough signs in roman letters and people who want to speak English that you can get by with a pitiful level of Japanese. It also means that if you're going to live in Japan, it will take a bit of effort to use your Japanese.

The problem isn't whether there is opportunity to speak Japanese. It's all around you. The problem is your own shyness. The unwillingness to make mistakes in front of strangers. The knowledge that you don't really know enough Japanese to get along turns some foreigners into hermits.

Then there is the fact that the Japanese won't expect you to learn Japanese either. When I walked into a store in Japan, the first thing that would happen is the cute girl behind the counter would disappear into the back room. Then out would come a rather embarrassed looking manager -- the guy who has to deal with the foreigner. I'd go up to the man and ask a question in Japanese, and he'd get a very perplexed look on his face. You see, he was so nervous about having to answer in English, that he didn't actually recognize that the words coming out of my mouth were in his language. By the end of the sentence, he caught on. I'd have to repeat what I said, but after that, it became a conversation in Japanese (where he usually had to tell me that he was sorry, but his store didn't carry what I wanted).

When one's hair is blonde, it becomes an opportunity for the Japanese to practice their English -- even after they realize that you speak Japanese. Numbers can be read off of the register when making a purchase. Food is displayed in plastic outside the restaurant, so you can memorize the Japanese characters and point to it on the menu when making your order. Every now and again, you're going to get on the wrong train or bus, but for the most part, you'll be fine without knowing Japanese.

The weird thing is, (as long as you don't look Japanese) it doesn't matter if you make mistakes with your Japanese. Most Japanese people will praise you to the rafters if all you say is konnichi-wa. If you try to make a sentence, most will treat you like a world-class genius. I was pretty introverted myself until I noticed all the praise one gets for even making the attempt. Then I happily made errors with the language all over the place.

Make no mistake, it isn't easy to learn the language, but when you're in Japan, there are a lot of rewards for even broken Japanese.

June 25, 2006

One Thing

There are movies that I like to quote, like The Stunt Man, and movies I'm not in the habit of quoting like City Slickers. But in this case, the quote (or rather, paraphrase since I don't actually remember the dialog word for word) works so well, I'm forced into it.

Sensei: There's one thing that will get you through your culture shock when you live in Japan.

Novice: What's that, Sensei?

Sensei: I don't know.

Let's back up a bit. I'm assuming that as a Novice/Yellow Belt, you have moved to Japan for more than the minimum three months. That you're in for an extended stay of (perhaps) a year or more. Then you're bound to run into culture shock.

It doesn't happen to everyone. My first translation partner was from a home life that was so suffocating that to her, Japan was freedom. But at some point, most people ask the question, "What the hell am I doing in this weird-ass country!?" Please excuse the stronger-than-normal-for-this-column words, but that is exactly the feeling you get. Or, at least, the feeling I got, and judging from the people around me, I wasn't alone.

The problem was that Japan wasn't built for me. It was built for Japanese people, and I certainly wasn't one of those. And since I was a visitor in the country, I didn't really have a right to complain. Frustration and a feeling that I didn't belong built up, and by the fourth month or so, I was not having fun in Japan. (Neither were any of the other foreigners in my program.)

The way out of it was what Curley was saying in the movie. One Thing. And his answer was the same for this situation also. That the one thing was different for everybody. However, within the differences among everyone, there was a unifying feature.

We all settled on pretty much the same therapy: obsession.

Yes, we still had some seven or eight months to get through in Japan, so for each of us, how to get through those months was to choose a goal and obsessively concentrate on it. For me, it was to self-study. I pretty much gave up on the course work presented by the program, and concentrated on learning how to translate. My roommate, an aboriginal Lappish from Sweden, concentrated on learning about the aboriginal Ainu in Japan. My other suitemates took up goals such as making money or getting a job in Japanese business for after the program was over. We all obsessed.

And it worked. Basically what the obsession provides is a direction. Before, the question was, "What the hell am I doing in this weird-ass country," and the object of obsession provides that answer. Once the answer becomes fixed in your mind, you can start pulling back from the obsession as an all-consuming thing. You still have your goal, and you are still working on it, but you can also live other parts of you life too.

I don't know if this post will help anyone get through culture shock. I have the feeling that you just have to work your own way through it. And since it's such a personal thing, no warnings or solutions will matter one bit when you're actually going through it. But maybe it will help to know that most people go through the same thing, and a large majority of people came out on the other side.